Vivienne Tam
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 18, 2009
By Alison Baenen
Vivienne Tam's closely edited collection for Fall focused mainly on cocktail dresses; a few skirts, a couple of blouses, and a cheongsam made up the rest. "I always wear dresses," the designer said by way of explanation. "I'm not really a pants person." Those frocks, for the most part, were lovely, though Tam faltered by overworking some until they became more wearable art than ready-to-wear. Her inspiration this season was the Chinese character for nothingness—a piece of art in its own right—which Tam was drawn to for its graphic appeal, as well as its message of cleanliness and starting afresh. The character appeared, in some form or another, on almost all of her 20 looks. While at times its use was too literal—a purple sheath dress made entirely from characters on rounds of laser-etched silk charmeuse looked uncomfortable to wear—the abstract renderings of the symbol were skillfully done.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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