Vivienne Westwood Red Label
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2009
By Tim Blanks
When Vivienne Westwood was complimented recently on last season's Red Label showing, she replied with typical can't-help-herself candor that she actually had nothing to do with it. In which case, whoever is channeling her is doing a pretty good job of duplicating her signature. The corseting, the asymmetry, the tartans, the tailoring, the general air of wanton womanliness that is personified by Pamela Anderson, the new face of the business…they can all be found in Red Label.This particular edition went slack toward the end with one too many asymmetrically draped jersey dresses, which looked cheap. But before that moment, a tweed jacket with dimpled shoulders, a poncho-dress hybrid (droncho?) in olive green, and some capacious hooded winter wraps had an air of downplayed drama. The collection offered its own twist on the perennial naughty schoolgirl look with a tiny striped jacket and fiercely tailored pants (better make that "naughty schoolboy"). The invitation was a school report card. Seeing the sun is shining, we'll give this effort a B-.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
