Vivienne Westwood Red Label
February 20, 2009 London
This particular edition went slack toward the end with one too many asymmetrically draped jersey dresses, which looked cheap. But before that moment, a tweed jacket with dimpled shoulders, a poncho-dress hybrid (droncho?) in olive green, and some capacious hooded winter wraps had an air of downplayed drama. The collection offered its own twist on the perennial naughty schoolgirl look with a tiny striped jacket and fiercely tailored pants (better make that "naughty schoolboy"). The invitation was a school report card. Seeing the sun is shining, we'll give this effort a B-.