What better day than Friday the 13th to show a collection with a dark and romantic feel? Yigal Azrouël
tapped into the Coraline
/MisShapes/gothic vibe that's in the air, showing cape jackets, witchy leg-of-mutton sleeves, and tough-looking washed-cotton and leather stovepipes to the strains of Siouxsie Sioux. "The evolution of the collection is mostly in the proportions. It's less layered than in the past. I focused on a clean and lean silhouette," the designer said in a preshow interview. In fact, Azrouël has been heading in a tougher direction for a while now, but if this outing didn't stray too far from familiar territory, it offered a well-edited selection of darkly glamorous looks. Sharp were the nineties-referencing pieces with their flanges and inverted triangle shapes; less so, the knit "Nordic" pants and some overwrought evening looks. There were enticing cocoon-shaped knits and outerwear with which to weather the cold—and the economic crisis. Julia Stegner, sitting front-row in her role as Mercedes-Benz ambassador, approved: on her wish list is Azrouël's leather jacket and a studded jersey dress.