Yohji Yamamoto
PARIS, March 6, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
How many ways can you reimagine a peacoat? If you're Yohji Yamamoto, the variations are practically infinite. This was another one of the designer's think pieces, and this time he trained his razor-sharp focus on the single item that may be absolutely recession-proof: the winter coat.To start, it was long and black, all straight lines to the ankles, save for a jacket overlay on one side; by the end, it was red, poufed up with great swags of fabric in front; in the middle, it came double-breasted in white felt with a gauzy black trail railing behind. Other ideas he tried out included black coats with seams piped in white, and a few more with clouds of red felt fused to a big shoulder or a poufed sleeve.
Of course, it wasn't exclusively about outerwear. A long dress with raw edges made it into the lineup, as did a mannish jumpsuit and a tunic that unzipped at the back to reveal a black heart painted on the model's leg. For the finale, five girls came out together, holding hands, and formed a circle on the center of the runway. They wore five different red coats, each with fuchsia panels inset from collar to hem down the back.
As conceptual as the endeavor might have been, this collection was one of Yamamoto's more wearable, full of fabulous options you don't have to be a fashion intellectual to love. More proof that he's got practicality on his mind: a collaboration with Salvatore Ferragamo that produced the show's flat skimmers in red, white, and black.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
I
Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
-
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
