Y-3
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
Spoiler alert: Not only was Yohji Yamamoto in the house, but for the first time ever the master took a turn on the runway, trailed like a pied piper by a crowd of children. (No, the darling little people weren't there merely to warm your hard heart. Yes, Y-3 is adding children's apparel.) But let's rewind a little. The love child of Yohji and Adidas returned to the windswept venue of Pier 40. Last go-round, there was a wall of ice as the backdrop; this time, the ice had melted into a bright abstract expressionist square painted by the Brooklyn artist MOMO, who also lent his handiwork to some of the clothes, tagging a few black blazers and a pair of jeans. But that, perhaps surprisingly, was as arty as the show got.Sharply executed, the collection featured a dark, menswear-y mix, with the usual athletic details playing a subtle second fiddle (with the notable exception of eye-popping bright white sneaks that complemented the all-black looks quite well). This was Y-3's most straightforward and commercial offering to date. But the "c" word is in no way meant as a dig. It actually felt like a revelation to watch Y-3's occasionally awkward dance between sports and style give way to the simple I-want-to-wear-it appeal of, say, a pitch-perfect duffel coat, punched up slightly with white toggles, or a velvet-trimmed tuxedo jacket. Most style watchers in the past have probably asked themselves, "Well, OK, but who wears it?" If the label keeps evolving in this direction, maybe before long the answer will be a chorus of "Me!"
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
