Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Ann Demeulemeester

REVIEW

COMPLETE COLLECTION

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

PARIS, March 6, 2010

By Nicole Phelps

From Lanvin's Afrocentric bejeweled finale dresses to Rick Owens' glamorous nuns, tribes have been all the talk at Paris fashion week. Ann Demeulemeester's was particularly fierce, with its red leather, glistening coq feathers, and necklaces of braided whipcord. Perhaps a bit too fierce: Those details looked better and more believable in smaller doses—a red waistcoat, say, peeking out from beneath a black jacket, or plumes decorating the wrists of leather gloves—than they did served full-on (and things did get full-on there toward the end).

Demeulemeester chalked up points for experimentation but was much more in her element when it came to the confident tailoring that opened the show. Pants came pleated and full, jackets misbuttoned to create a sense of relaxation. In a season crowded with capes, her strong-shouldered camel version was a standout. And her furs, draped at the neck and tied nonchalantly at the waist, had an offhand kind of luxe that other designers haven't been able to grasp.

If you really want to talk tribal, ask one of the initiated about the fetish that has been made of Demeulemeester's boots. This season's skinny sliced wedge looks like a wait list waiting to happen.

See all from Ann Demeulemeester › Timeline

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A.F. Vandevorst	Acne	ADAM
A Détacher	Akris	Alberta Ferretti
Albino	Alexander McQueen	Alexander Wang
Alexandre Herchcovitch	Alice + Olivia	Altuzarra
Andrew Gn	Anna Sui	Ann Demeulemeester
Anne Valérie Hash	Antonio Berardi	Aquascutum
Aquilano.Rimondi	Araks	Azzaro

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	Balmain
Banana Republic	Band of Outsiders	Barbara Tfank
Basso & Brooke	BCBG Max Azria	Behnaz Sarafpour
Bensoni	Betsey Johnson	Bibhu Mohapatra
Blumarine	Bottega Veneta	Brian Reyes
Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calvin Klein Collection	Carlos Miele
Carolina Herrera	Celine	Central Saint Martins
Cerruti	Chado Ralph Rucci	Chalayan
Chanel	Charles Anastase	Charlotte Ronson
Chloé	Chris Benz	Christian Cota
Christian Dior	Christian Siriano	Christopher Kane
Clements Ribeiro	Collette Dinnigan	Comme des Garçons
Costello Tagliapietra	Costume National	Cushnie et Ochs
Cynthia Rowley	Cynthia Steffe

D&G	Davidelfin	Dennis Basso
Derek Lam	Devi Kroell	Diane von Furstenberg
Diesel Black Gold	DKNY	Dolce & Gabbana
Donna Karan	Doo.Ri	Douglas Hannant
Dries Van Noten	Dsquared²	Duro Olowu

Elie Saab	Elie Tahari	Elise Øverland
Emanuel Ungaro	Emilio Pucci	Emporio Armani
Erdem	Erin Fetherston	Erin Wasson x RVCA
Etro