February 25, 2010 Milan
As far as dresses are concerned, the show began where it ended: with trompe l'oeil jewelry in the neckline of a nude, vertically pleated number. Ferretti navigated the current vibe for barely-there color and covered arms, sometimes with crystal sparkles planted on near-invisible net, the way you'd see in figure-skater outfits (had she been thinking Winter Olympics?). The coats, too, had the fit-and-flare silhouette that has been developing somewhere along the line this season as a mainstream, feminized response to the rigid A-line look that is taking hold in many collections.
Still, with the Academy Awards imminent, Ferretti's section of long dresses could be up for more public attention than the rest of this collection. The way she showed them, with natural-looking makeup and downplayed hair, struck a note that could look refreshing on that red carpet.