Albino
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 25, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Albino D'Amato's collection was a focused if slightly repetitive study in shape. Make that two shapes—on the one hand, there were A-line, quasi-trapezoidal silhouettes; and on the other, there were sleek, pencil-slim sheaths. Necklines were high, almost prim. But if a general austerity ruled above the waist (not a button in sight, no superfluous details save for a few chaste black ribbon bows), a lot of action was going on below it. Those A-line dresses and capes came to a halt well above the knees, and his long dresses had slits that inched up the thighs.Albino used just a few colors-—creamy white, caramel, brown, light blue, and black—all of which worked back to the photo-realistic stained-glass prints (again, the religious undertones) that appeared on stately silk mikados. The concise palette, along with the absence of pants, gave the show its aforementioned focus, but could be a bit unrelenting. Still, there were some compelling numbers in the mix. Among the shorter styles, a black cape lined in white neoprene stood up to all the other versions of this topper out there on the runways. As for the longer numbers, cable sweaters cropped an inch or so above narrow slit skirts looked right.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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