Altuzarra
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
In an abrupt shift from last season's dreamy seventies-inflected stenciled ponchos and shredded suede and point d'esprit apron dresses, Joseph Altuzarra sent out a fierce and fearless collection of structured tailoring, commanding outerwear, and seriously sexy dresses. Ironically, some designers have been moving in the opposite direction lately, and yet Altuzarra's counterintuitive move was completely convincing. Backstage he explained he wanted to explore the dichotomies between strength and fragility, modern reality and fairy tales. At the outset, it was hard to see where the fragility came in, so potent and imposing was the first model out in her jacket pieced together, in the au courant manner, from nubby wool, leather, and goat fur. A second glance, however, revealed that the seams at the back of the blazer's arms were stitched roughly, like sutures.The Edward Scissorhands motif continued throughout: Sometimes the stitches were taut, revealing just a flash of skin between the curving seams of a pair of narrow pants; other times, Altuzarra took a looser approach, as when knitting together the splices in a stretchy hourglass dress. Even the boots were slashed to reveal the ankle. Belts and buckles, meanwhile, provided another suggestive element. There were shades of S&M in a pencil skirt with straps holding its hip-high slits together. The blood red evening dresses flashing décolletage and thigh weren't for the faint of heart, either.
This was just Altuzarra's third collection, but the confidence of his technique and vision would suggest that his newcomer days are over.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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