Aquilano.Rimondi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 28, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
If you caught their Gianfranco Ferré collection earlier this week, you noticed that Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have developed an earnest new interest in wearable daywear. This economy has a way of doing that. Fashion watchers who might've written off the duo as decorators, not designers, were probably pleasantly surprised today by a pair of gorgeous nude wool crepe sheaths, both of which were elegantly unadorned but for a floppy bow at the hip or neckline. They also had a strong navy double-breasted jacket belted at the waist over long, flared pants. Save for a couple of frilly, ruffled printed silk dresses, the silhouette was close to the body and ultra-streamlined.No, the duo hasn't forsaken the embellished look that's become their signature, but they have modulated it a bit to stay current. Channeling Marisa Berenson and Marina Schiano, both of whom were jet-setting around Rome in the seventies, they paired snug cabled cashmere sweaters with be-feathered pencil skirts or low-slung handmade tweed trousers. They frayed the edges of their tweed skirtsuits and coats and studded the shoulders with smatterings of crystals. And they stitched strips of fox to organza to keep their furs light. The palette was soft: dusty pink, gray-blue, violet, peachy ivory. The effect was still rich, but a whole lot subtler than last season—a savvy move that could win over some previously reluctant fans.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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