Bensoni
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2010
By Alison Baenen
Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Yoon gave their imaginary Fall muse a familiar backstory: A generous grandmother from Greenwich, Connecticut, has bequeathed her a new wardrobe, and she's had it tailored for a more modern fit.The fit was fine. But there wasn't enough of the modern to push the collection forward—and at times it felt like Bensoni's girl was playing dress-up. A boxy mohair topper in two tones of scarlet was nice, for instance, but it screamed Camelot.
Fur, though, was a strong addition to the lineup. The best outerwear bet was a fox vest that, viewed from the back, revealed itself to be part cashmere sweater. An unusual print on a smart sheath dress in gray and white turned out to be a digital rendering of fox fur that somehow looked simultaneously organic and supernatural. Clyburn and Yoon have shown a flair for prints in the past; they should pursue this talent further.
Dresses, unfortunately, could have used a more rigorous edit. A series of asymmetrical and one-shouldered numbers cut short and inevitably ruched were hardly special, and with the addition of contrasting cross-body panels of fabric, unflattering. If the concept was a reworked gala gown, perhaps it would have been best to leave the gown as it was.
Missteps aside, Bensoni clearly has potential. Developing a string of go-to basics—including, say, their perfectly tailored skinny cotton-faille pants—would be a good start.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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