February 11, 2010 New York
The fit was fine. But there wasn't enough of the modern to push the collection forward—and at times it felt like Bensoni's girl was playing dress-up. A boxy mohair topper in two tones of scarlet was nice, for instance, but it screamed Camelot.
Fur, though, was a strong addition to the lineup. The best outerwear bet was a fox vest that, viewed from the back, revealed itself to be part cashmere sweater. An unusual print on a smart sheath dress in gray and white turned out to be a digital rendering of fox fur that somehow looked simultaneously organic and supernatural. Clyburn and Yoon have shown a flair for prints in the past; they should pursue this talent further.
Dresses, unfortunately, could have used a more rigorous edit. A series of asymmetrical and one-shouldered numbers cut short and inevitably ruched were hardly special, and with the addition of contrasting cross-body panels of fabric, unflattering. If the concept was a reworked gala gown, perhaps it would have been best to leave the gown as it was.
Missteps aside, Bensoni clearly has potential. Developing a string of go-to basics—including, say, their perfectly tailored skinny cotton-faille pants—would be a good start.