Bibhu Mohapatra
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2010
By Romney Leader
It hasn't been the most favorable economic climate for any young designer, let alone one trying to break into the eveningwear market. Credit Bibhu Mohapatra for being not only talented but adaptable. The designer's third collection was his strongest—and crucially, most rounded—to date. Two oft-cited films, Bernardo Bertolucci's Il Conformista and Fritz Lang's Metropolis, inspired the sophisticated daywear he developed for Fall. Strongest were the smartly tailored wool coats, a pencil skirt with brass buttons, and a chunky double-breasted cardigan trimmed in fur. The dresses, surprisingly, were more hit-or-miss. A pale hand-pleated chiffon number was pretty, but the label inside could easily have read J. Mendel (the designer's previous employer). A draped silk evening gown that floated across the model's body, on the other hand, struck just the right note. Mohapatra made an effort to tell a more complete story this season. It's a strategy that should pay dividends in the coming months.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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