Charles Anastase
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 20, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Finally, Fall fashion acknowledges the Copenhagen conference on climate change. Charles Anastase called his new collection "Winter Garden" to mark the discombobulation of a world where exotic summer fruits and flowers are available in the chill dead of winter. His message was slightly diffused by the fact that he chose a woman he called "a crazy gardener" to embody the concept. That immediately made me picture the eccentric chatelaine of a grand English estate. Was I wrong?There was certainly enough eccentricity to indulge anyone's random reading of the clothes. Proportions were elongated: high-waisted pants flaring to the floor; dresses long, clinging, with a kick pleat; coats huge and blanketlike. This chatelaine probably lived in the forties, but the seventies certainly loved her style, particularly those pants. Though Anastase chose cheerful colors like pink and yellow, he also opted for heavy felted wools. In keeping with the climate-change warning (one model had a skull painted on her face), there wasn't much levity. What little there was came in the form of a plissé smock over Chinese silk pants (now, that is crazy gardening) or the outfit that featured a drop-waist yellow dress draped with tulle covered in naïf appliqués. I'll give Anastase one thing: He creates images that spin around your head for hours.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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