Cushnie et Ochs
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 11, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
With new designers, growth spurts often come fast and furious. Days before their show, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs reported that Spring's collection, only their third so far, had tripled the label's orders and lured heavyweights like Neiman Marcus. But today's show was evidence that Cushnie et Ochs' forward strides aren't limited to the sales books. Working in a concise and stark palette of black, ivory, and a small array of browns, the pair focused on texture and construction. As unsexy as that might sound, it was plenty exciting to see panels of glossy black ponyskin set into the front of a beautiful double-face wool coat, or the polka-dotlike holes in a black leather pencil skirt paired with a black mesh knit. It's an approach that resulted in the double benefit of clothes that were luxurious and commercial in the best sense.Dresses, a label mainstay, evolved from the extreme body-con look of seasons past. Most were still fitted and sleek, but it was a subtler brand of sexiness. A standout crisscross draped number that was the color of chocolate ice cream had best-seller appeal. Still, last season Cushnie and Ochs started to branch out from being so fixated on frocks, and that came to fruition here. Their outerwear and separate pieces for both day and night were among the most exciting offerings. That's not to say this was a perfect collection. In fact, it suffered from a few clunky moments. The sparkly, padded suit would be flattering on no one. And an ivory dress with snaking sculptural ruffles just seemed immature next to the far chicer ensemble of a crinkle-textured crewneck tucked into a sideswept draped skirt. The latter direction is the way this label should keep going as it maintains its rapid clip.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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