February 20, 2010 London
The collection's definitive outfit was probably a languid cardigan appliquéd with crystal embroidery, layered over a paisley blouse and gilded jacquard pants tucked into Cossack boots. On paper, it reads as extravagantly costumey, but in the flesh the extravagance had a winningly casual quality, just like the style of Loulou de la Falaise, the YSL muse who has always been Clements Ribeiro's benchmark. In fact, they named one look after her. A few menswear looks inspired by the fellows in the YSL gang offered a semi-respite from the richness. There was a navy peacoat, for instance, and a fur-collared camel coat, plus one in gray flannel whose frogged closing was scarcely less ornate than the detailing on a little gay hussar jacket in black astrakhan wool. Suzanne and Inacio built their old business on an idiosyncratic combination of seductive luxury and reassuring ease. It looks like history is about to repeat.