Clements Ribeiro
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro called their new collection "Haute Bohemia" in honor of their favorite moment from the seventies, when Yves Saint Laurent and the Parisian jeunesse dorée were adding new colors to decadence. It was specifically YSL's epochal Russian moment that Clements Ribeiro picked up on. "Opulence for day-to-day life," was how Inacio described it. So there was a luxe overload of print, embroidery, and appliqué in the clothes, but always with a slightly eccentric English ease.The collection's definitive outfit was probably a languid cardigan appliquéd with crystal embroidery, layered over a paisley blouse and gilded jacquard pants tucked into Cossack boots. On paper, it reads as extravagantly costumey, but in the flesh the extravagance had a winningly casual quality, just like the style of Loulou de la Falaise, the YSL muse who has always been Clements Ribeiro's benchmark. In fact, they named one look after her. A few menswear looks inspired by the fellows in the YSL gang offered a semi-respite from the richness. There was a navy peacoat, for instance, and a fur-collared camel coat, plus one in gray flannel whose frogged closing was scarcely less ornate than the detailing on a little gay hussar jacket in black astrakhan wool. Suzanne and Inacio built their old business on an idiosyncratic combination of seductive luxury and reassuring ease. It looks like history is about to repeat.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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