The portrait-filled book Us and Them, an encapsulation of the relationship and work of husband-and-wife photographers June and Helmut Newton, was Camilla Stærk's point of entry for Fall. "I love his woman," she said, referring to all the femmes fatales Helmut photographed obsessively. "It's very me, in a way." For Stærk, that means lots of black leather, and a certain moody, broody sensibility. A Newtown-esque toughness was apparent at her presentation, given jointly this season with friend and menswear designer Victor Glemaud. Red and nude leather ties worn under all-black outfits had a graphic appeal perfect for the pages of a magazine; how they'd fare commercially is another matter.

With leather making its way into seemingly everyone's collection this season, Stærk worked at giving hers a standout fluidity: A pair of nude pants that tapered at the ankle had the easy drape of sweatpants. For something a little fiercer, a suede-look jersey dress with saddle-inspired leather epaulets should fit the bill.