Davidelfin
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 18, 2010
By Alison Baenen
The Spanish model Eleonora Bose, who made her name in the early aughts modeling for a Tom Ford-run Gucci, opened the show sporting a cropped helmet of Crayola yellow hair. Bose's square-jawed, androgynous look was right in line with the spare silhouettes.Words like "ecclesiastical" and "strict" are often applied to a Davidelfin collection, and adding to the mood of austerity this season was a black, white, and gray palette accented by pops of fuchsia and a shade that matched Bose's 'do. A lone print, taken from snakeskin, was a welcome relief from the monochrome.
As was the case with Spring (which featured pants hidden behind a skirt front, and a shirtdress disguised as a cardigan and top), designer David Delfin played with the reorganization of garments, literally cutting them apart and moving the leftovers to other pieces. What looked like part of a miniskirt attached to a pair of gray wool trousers was actually the end of a blazer, pockets and all, that had been chopped off at the waist and moved down. "If you see a cropped jacket," the designer said, "you will see the bottom of it appear somewhere else." Interesting concept, but the results were alternately severe or just odd.
Better was a sheath with a long blazer worn over the top; it was actually one piece that zipped up the back, with an overall slimming effect. A few flattering looks aside, there was an awkwardness to many of them (one model appeared positively hobbled by her coat-dress hybrid) that detracted from the strength of the tailoring.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
F
Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
