Doo-Ri Chung's show started off with a navy suit featuring a bold-shouldered jacket whose hem was draped in black netting. A shirtdress, its regimental precision softened by swagged sashes below the waist, came next. So far, so strong. Chung's twin skills are tailoring and draping, and she put them to good use later on with, respectively, a lapis blue double-breasted coat and a sleeveless dress that, knotted and gathered at the hips, managed to make suede look sexy. The collection also had some sharp-looking cropped jackets and military pants, and an interesting textured silk strapless dress that looked like leather from the front row. But slinky jersey minidresses densely embroidered with orange, turquoise, and violet sequins at the sides didn't quite have the taste level you'd expect of Chung, and it was hard to connect the dots between them and other evening looks, like the spare sleeveless tops and long narrow skirts in gray and tan that closed the show. Overall, the collection seemed to lack focus, and it was sometimes difficult to engage with what was on the runway.