The fierce urban warrior of seasons past may be giving way to cozy layers and a more relaxed vibe on other Fall 2010 runways, but Elise Øverland isn't abandoning her signature rocker-chic aesthetic. "I just stand in front of my closet and decide what I want to wear in order to feel modern," the designer shrugged, speaking to Style.com in her studio two days before her show. For Fall, Øverland's feeling velvet, in particular a menswear-inspired suit with echoes of Mick Jagger and a tuxedo-style wrap dress with strong shoulders. Leather—of course—is also on her radar, turning up most notably in a black suit comprising a boxy moto jacket and slim pencil skirt, as well as a striking tonal red ensemble featuring a cropped jacket and form-fitting suede dress. "I didn't do as much leather this season, because it's hard to wear every day," Øverland explained. Maybe for the average person, but we're willing to bet the gaggle of art-world beauties cheering on the designer's stick-to-her-guns collection can pull it off.