February 21, 2010 London
The thing about being a designer of pretty dresses is that it takes something a little odd to keep it young and just left of conventional. Sometimes, with Erdem, it's an overload of sweetness, embroidery, and froth that does it. In this case, it was the color, slightly off and more somber than usual. Though most of the shapes—Moralioglu's familiar short, stiffly belled skirts and high-necked long gowns—stayed the same, the effects worked well here and there. A cloudy gray tulle dress with bird appliqués and a yellow silk number, its puffed sleeves vertically patterned with autumn leaves, had the kind of slightly weird aura that would turn heads at a cocktail party; and all the long finale dresses had Moralioglu's signature delicate romance about them. Otherwise, with an eye to the fact that this was an outdoorsy collection, he added a few coats to keep his girls warm in the woods. A neat camel trench with a shearling-lined hood had members of the audience planning personal orders as they struggled out into the rain-swept London streets.