Etro
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 27, 2010
By Sarah Mower
Straitened economic conditions, packed schedules, and the super-quick absorption of fashion on the Internet being as they are, it was quaint—not to say, verging on bizarre—to turn up to a midday show, only to find a drinks-and-nibbles reception in full swing, followed by a collection that trailed on so long, a quarter of the audience got up and headed out in desperation before the models left the runway. Not to be rude to the content of Etro, whose eclectic-ethnic aesthetic has an immense amount of goodwill on its side (it's a kind of Italian answer to Dries Van Noten), but this isn't the way fashion is conducted anywhere else these days.That said, this was possibly the collection in which Veronica Etro had taken the house heritage in paisley and chinoiserie fabrics and most successfully integrated them into fashion. The paisley motifs were separated out and flatteringly placed in clusters riding on the flanks of pencil skirts or in the bodice of high-waisted dresses. This wasn't one of Etro's hippie-deluxe seasons, where everything flows in breezy gypsy fashion, but one where the richness of travelers' trophies was distilled, imagined as the possessions of Peggy Guggenheim or Diana Vreeland. That gave the cue for some great jewelry, including Cleopatra-like neckpieces, worn on sweaters with chic navy caban coats and cropped pants. Other elements were chinoiserie-quilted jackets, cheongsam blouses, and kimono gowns, but by the time the last few were exiting the runway, the audience had lost the plot and was flooding out.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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