Gabriele Colangelo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 27, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Gabriele Colangelo's first passion is fabric. For Fall, he got interested in the idea of erosion and rocks, which gave him the basis for a coolly elegant color palette of grays, beiges, and icy whites and provided a starting point for his deeply tactile materials. Among them: the richly textured, fissured wool he used for the opening leather-belted wrap coat; the chiffon trapped between double layers of organza that became a softly draped shift; and the charcoal flannel he twisted and tucked to evoke swirls of marble on an otherwise simple dress.His sheared astrakhans and minks intrigued, too—you can chalk that up to the family furrier business. Thanks to new techniques, the details of which he wasn't divulging, Colangelo's vests, coats, and even skirts require no lining—call it double-face fur. No doubt his background helped him come up with the crinkly lightweight leather he cut into a streamlined collarless coat. In a Milan season of great outerwear, it was right up there. In all: another promising outing from this up-and-comer.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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