Giles
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 3, 2010
By Sarah Mower
Something of the sixties keeps bobbing up on the runways this season. It was there at Prada and Rochas, and now—not entirely surprisingly, since it's often the designer's beat—at Giles, giant beehives and all. This time, Giles Deacon found his way into it by looking at the work of the contemporary Dutch photographer Erwin Olaf. The designer said he was aiming to catch the spirit of "slightly disconsolate girls who might be from the sixties—or somewhere in the future. Or maybe on a starship."If it didn't count as one of the season's more rigorous work-throughs of sci-fi and sixties themes, it gave Deacon the excuse to crush some of Fall's trends together: a palette of browns and orange, A-line skirts, cropped versions of winter's new flares, metallic brocade gathered short skirts, and a shearling jacket. The last had a big collar styled (if you looked at it one way) like an Apollo-mission space suit. Toy-shaped handbags—a gonk and a gremlin—made for Deacon by Katie Hillier, and funny metal "cloud" headdresses by Stephen Jones gave a spoofy cartoonish spin. Still, there's a sense that Deacon is having a harder time attracting attention among the Paris competition than in his native London. This season, to get the slot he wanted, he went off-schedule, causing a certain amount of disruption to the first night of the Paris shows.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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