Gianfranco Ferré
MILAN, February 26, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi got the Fall memo about simplifying and streamlining. With the Bauhaus movement and samurai costumes for inspiration, their latest collection had a more understated sensibility than their previous efforts, a welcome development.In the past this duo has tended to favor heavy embroideries and overly complicated constructions, but today's embellishments were mostly of a subtler variety: A precisely cut gray tweed suit came with a leather panel down the front of both the jacket and the skirt, while a gorgeous camel alpaca coat had sharp, contrasting lapels.
Of course, this wouldn't be the house of Ferré without flourishes. The designers called their new look "decorated minimalism," and it was a fitting description for a sleek long-sleeved, zip-front dress with woven leather insets or a caramel chiffon strapless number with delicate geometric pintucking. Come evening, a nude jersey gown with a shiny harness was less well judged. But some of the long dresses, which were spliced with curving panels of sequins or a glinting flash of gold patent leather, demonstrated the designers' new, lighter touch.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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