"I love things that look like they were once something else," Gary Graham said a few days before his show. And so Fall had a well-worn and repurposed look; even the shoes, cloven-hoof heels (designed to give the models maximum height during a stage-less presentation), were assembled from bits of flotsam and jetsam lying about in the studio.

The needlepoint tapestry on one sharp Victorian-ish coat looked like a remnant of an old couch—a good thing. Even better was a beat-up and cropped leather cape with a surprisingly sweet, soft shape, worn over a silk jersey top and a miniskirt. In addition to repurposing, Graham likes multipurposing: What was termed a "skirt top" in the liner notes turned out to be a flimsy georgette piece that could be worn as a dress, a shirt, or a skirt. Many of the looks were expertly layered with skirts and dresses peeking out below alpaca Indian cloth cardigans or boiled-wool coats. Amid all the harder fabrics and the raw tailoring, a beaded black tulle dress struck a poignant note of delicacy.