February 12, 2010 New York
The needlepoint tapestry on one sharp Victorian-ish coat looked like a remnant of an old couch—a good thing. Even better was a beat-up and cropped leather cape with a surprisingly sweet, soft shape, worn over a silk jersey top and a miniskirt. In addition to repurposing, Graham likes multipurposing: What was termed a "skirt top" in the liner notes turned out to be a flimsy georgette piece that could be worn as a dress, a shirt, or a skirt. Many of the looks were expertly layered with skirts and dresses peeking out below alpaca Indian cloth cardigans or boiled-wool coats. Amid all the harder fabrics and the raw tailoring, a beaded black tulle dress struck a poignant note of delicacy.