Haider Ackermann
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 6, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
When a designer's profile rises, as Haider Ackermann's has these last several seasons, the pressures to please both early followers and new retail accounts can prove challenging. But Ackermann is as confident as ever; with his serenely gorgeous new collection, he proved that his commercial powers are equal to his impressive creative ones.Ackermann doesn't alter the building blocks from season to season. His signature fitted leather and suede vests and jackets are back, but this time with even more drama. That's thanks to both long, undulating collars that can be wrapped around the neck any number of ways and zipped-on peplums that are easily detached, should the woman wearing them so choose. "I wanted it to be totally up to you," he said backstage, alluding to the clothes' timely utilitarianism. On the bottom, his fans' options will include, as usual, leather leggings or floor-scraping skirts with deep slits, along with new, more tailored trousers.
If there was a shortage of the sinuous silk evening numbers that Hollywood has come to appreciate—a laser-cut leather gown with an extravagant flounce at the back was strictly editorial—it was because the designer focused on more commercial offerings for day, like elegant silk pantsuits and striking cocoon coats. Unzipped a bit, they possessed some of the sculptural beauty of his vests and jackets. As a gateway drug to the world of Haider Ackermann, they look like quite seductive stuff.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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