When a designer's profile rises, as Haider Ackermann's has these last several seasons, the pressures to please both early followers and new retail accounts can prove challenging. But Ackermann is as confident as ever; with his serenely gorgeous new collection, he proved that his commercial powers are equal to his impressive creative ones.

Ackermann doesn't alter the building blocks from season to season. His signature fitted leather and suede vests and jackets are back, but this time with even more drama. That's thanks to both long, undulating collars that can be wrapped around the neck any number of ways and zipped-on peplums that are easily detached, should the woman wearing them so choose. "I wanted it to be totally up to you," he said backstage, alluding to the clothes' timely utilitarianism. On the bottom, his fans' options will include, as usual, leather leggings or floor-scraping skirts with deep slits, along with new, more tailored trousers.

If there was a shortage of the sinuous silk evening numbers that Hollywood has come to appreciate—a laser-cut leather gown with an extravagant flounce at the back was strictly editorial—it was because the designer focused on more commercial offerings for day, like elegant silk pantsuits and striking cocoon coats. Unzipped a bit, they possessed some of the sculptural beauty of his vests and jackets. As a gateway drug to the world of Haider Ackermann, they look like quite seductive stuff.