Halston
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2010
By Tim Blanks
For his new gig at Halston, Marios Schwab was less engaged by the late designer's archive than by his ambition: to create something timeless for strong women. Schwab says that's his goal, too, and he achieved it when the woman evoked by his classically draped dresses with their flippy little skirts was Diana the Huntress. (Well, Schwab was born in Greece, where a little myth goes a long way.) The Halston legacy has defeated the best intentions of a handful of designers over the past few decades, but now there's a Heritage range to corral the classics (fronted by Sarah Jessica Parker, who showed up at the presentation today, along with Halston owner Harvey Weinstein), so Schwab has a more open playing field. He made the most of it with a collection that was a notably confident extension of his own aesthetic. An acute body-consciousness has always defined his work. Here, one of his inspirations was the fluidity of mercury, hence all that draping. The dress in sculpted neoprene offered a modern variation on the theme. More tricksy were the dresses with epaulets extended to wrap and define the models' forms. They trapped, rather than wrapped.In one way at least, Schwab honored the name on the label. Another of his inspirations was apparently the set design of the 1978 Faye Dunaway vehicle Eyes of Laura Mars, which loaned a color palette of rich neutrals—in a sweater dress with fur sleeves, for instance—that was set off by shots of intense color, like the yellow knit cape dress or the red jersey gown. Sophisticated urban dressing, in other words, and that's Halston to the core. Schwab also brought in London-based jeweler Jacqueline Rabun to create silver accessories whose organic shapes echoed Elsa Peretti's classic pieces for Halston.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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