Hervé Léger by Max Azria

NEW YORK, February 14, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
It's a wonder that Lubov and Max Azria didn't turn to athletic inspirations for their Hervé Léger collection before today. The classic Léger bandage dress has a strongly sporty aspect all on its own, so adding a graphic, peak-performance element makes an awful lot of sense. "We realized that if you wear Hervé Léger, you have to be in shape," explained Lubov backstage after the show. "You know, you lace up tennis shoes, so we started to lace up bodices—and then moved on to ergonomics."

The iconic ribbons and bandages curved on the body in downhill-racer-sleek forms, some inset with mesh panels. Yet more sporty spice came from the black neoprene jacket and coat laced from shoulder to wrist. There were lots of beautiful pales, but also—as seen on the new second-skin, skinny laced pants—a great dark sci-fi vein here, too (that will be manna to those who mourn the loss of Phi).

For those Léger fans who prefer their glamour less aggressive, there were softer velvet dresses, and dresses with a flocking technique that the Azrias used in curved flanges on hips. Designing a garment composed only of bandages poses a unique creative conundrum. "I think it's more exciting, because you have the parameters," said Lubov. "You have to create more and more. It's a challenge, but we love it." And so do we.

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