Issey Miyake
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2010
By Tim Blanks
There's always been as much science as there is art in an Issey Miyake collection. Dai Fujiwara consolidated the connection with Fall's offering, inspired by the revolutionary mathematician William Thurston's geometric models for the shape of the universe. As abstract as that sounds, the result was an often breathtaking evolution of last season's rainbow-nation tribalism. After the show, Fujiwara and Thurston wrapped themselves for the press in a long stretch of red tubing to make the point that something that looks random is actually (according to Thurston) "beautiful geometry."The same idea was explored in outfits that were draped in ropes of knit tubing, or jackets piped to mirror the mathematician's graphic formulae. The twists and turns of quilted, ruched, ribbed, and shirred pieces were also Thurston-inspired. Maybe it was the rigor of mathematical thought that loaned the collection more structure and elegance than it's had previously. It was especially obvious in spectacular coats and jackets, like the funnel-collared coat in orange tweed; or a cocoon of tweed woven with silver lamé; or a biker jacket, also in tweed. The cocoon shape appeared again in layered knits that were as fine as mousseline. And, speaking of fine, the very last piece sealed the deal on a splendid collection. It was a coat made from squares of translucent black organdy, stitched with stars that looked to be shining.
Two decades ago, in the same venue, Romeo Gigli transfixed Paris with a show so rich and romantic that it moved its audience to tears. Maybe that didn't happen today, but, at the very least, Fujiwara used his inspiration to blend art and science in a manner so rich and romantic, it stirred the emotions in a way that reminded us of Gigli.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
F
Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
