If one is to judge a label by its front row—which is, after all, the point of the front row—what on earth to make of Issa? Its prime seating section proudly showcased the likes of Peaches Geldof and Pippa Middleton, sister of Kate, girlfriend of Prince William. In other words, English girls famous for their relatives.

Likewise, there is a distinct sense that Daniella Issa Helayel's label is struggling to find its own way—at least on the evidence of today's collection, which teetered between smart clothes for grown women and overly embellished flotsam and jetsam for It girls. The latter may have brought Issa initial attention in its early days, but Helayel should start focusing on the former, because, to go by what was on the runway, that is where her strengths actually lie.

There was a lovely middle section of plain gray wool dresses that were a lot sexier and smarter than they sound. The quilted jackets with sequined shoulder pads on the outside, however, were not. Similarly, the best dress of the bunch was probably a long, plain deep burgundy number that came toward the end of the show. Yet the completely beaded version of the same style that followed nearly ruined the memory of its chicer predecessor. What's more, it was worn with ankle boots. Ankle boots? With a long dress? That suggested Helayel also needs to move on from her current stylist if she wants to take her label to the next, cooler, less Geldof-ed level.