Jaeger London
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 22, 2010
By Hadley Freeman
The minimalism on New York's runways suggested that Phoebe Philo's debut for Celine last season may well prove to be as influential as all of her collections at Chloé were. Jaeger London's show didn't so much suggest this as shout its adoration for Philo from its pared-down catwalk.And frankly, so what? There's a reason everyone has looked to Philo's work at Celine: because it's really good. And since when did anyone turn to Jaeger London for cutting-edge originality, anyway? The label is supposed to stand for female-friendly, practical, Anglo-centric cool clothes. Take out the word "clothes" and you have a description of Philo herself, so kudos to the brand for at least being smart enough to know who to look at.
And there were some lovely clothes here. There was a sharp skirtsuit with a neatly cut jacket, trimmed at all the seams with leather piping, and a gorgeous midnight blue velvet dress (OK, that one said Lanvin more than Celine). The flat ankle boots were particularly great, looking like the product of a union between an Ugg and a Vivienne Westwood pirate number (honestly, the result was a lot better than the oddly matched parentage would suggest). And there were appealing bags decked with chunky gold chains. Yes, they did look a little Marc Jacobs Stam bag-ish, since you ask, but that gold chain still looks good after all these years. London may famously—or notoriously—value originality over all, but sometimes playing it safe is a really good look.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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