Jason Wu
NEW YORK, February 12, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
With their electric colors and abbreviated hemlines, the Spring clothes that Jason Wu showed last September sent a clear message: Grateful as he was for the attention he received after Michelle Obama wore his gown on inauguration night, he didn't want to become recognized for just one kind of look. Now, for Fall, he seems determined to move even further from the princess dresses that were his first claim to fame. If the results were occasionally uneven, you can't fault the 27-year-old designer's impulse to expand the scope of what he's known for."There's a big menswear message and a big outerwear message," he said a couple of days before his show. The starting point for his short-sleeve jackets, oversize cashmere coats, boxy mohair sweaters, and fold-over trousers was Irving Penn—the man himself, not his works. Plaid jackets and crisp white shirts were the late photographer's daily uniform. Here, they had an appealing, shrugged-on sensibility that suggests Wu has noticed the movement elsewhere in fashion toward clean, spare classics.
Penn's photographs were also an influence, as it turned out, evident in some of the collection's key prints. Those aren't polka dots on that strapless shantung bubble dress, they're a reproduction of a cigarette-burn print. Cast-off negatives of chemical spills, meanwhile, inspired the gold leafing on Wu's duchesse satin sheaths. It didn't all work: Some experiments in eveningwear, namely a pair of black hand-draped Chantilly lace dresses, lacked the effervescent quality of Wu's best designs. But he was back to form with an off-the-shoulder dress with pheasant feathers trapped between layers of tulle, as well as an almost weightless plume-print silk tulle strapless style. It's a pity the West Chelsea venue wasn't better lit to allow a closer look.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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