Juan Carlos Obando

NEW YORK, February 14, 2010
By Alison Baenen
"I wanted to show that we could cut a dress," Juan Carlos Obando said after his deceptively simple Fall show. With a minimum of extras on the runway (save for George Esquivel's thigh-high, lace-up "boot extensions," which created a minor and sexy distraction), attention was trained on the garments themselves, and Obando's scissor skills were plainly on display. His tailoring indeed proved to be faultless.

A high-collared wool jacket had a futuristic equestrian feel; paired with slim trousers in the same shade of sand, it made a supremely chic pantsuit. Flattering curved seams elevated simple sheaths, while worsted wool pants in two subtle tones of olive were especially becoming when seen from behind.

A brown bomber jacket looked like leather but turned out to be waxed mud cloth. It was structured but delightfully worn-in and rumpled. A trio of hand-pleated gowns in black and pale, pale neutrals closed the show. They were technically sound, but after so many clean, streamlined silhouettes, they seemed like an unnecessary flourish rather than a conclusion.

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