"I've always loved to see what my sister is wearing when she goes to the barn," Jenni Kayne said before her show, explaining Fall's strong equestrian bent. Turns out both Kayne girls ride—Jenni's horse, Cupid's Valentine, has a birthday coming up—and the designer called upon personal experience to craft a polished collection that isn't likely to see the inside of many stables.

Although only 15 looks were shown, more variety wasn't really needed, because the numbers presented were so strong. Jodhpur shorts, in reindeer and wool, were perfect cuffed and worn a bit loose. Up top, a sheared-rabbit shell had a gorgeous tactility. Posing a lovely contrast were the slim, silky trousers Kayne envisioned as an alternative to cocktail dresses for after six. A simple T-shirt dress in forest green leather was a stunner, but the real showpiece was a mud-cloth anorak. Deceptively lightweight, the jacket had oversize pockets and exposed stitching that lent it a workmanlike feel and a patina of age. Still, utilitarian as it was, it's destined for city life, not country labor.