Julian Louie
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2010
By Romney Leader
A short film featuring Ukrainian model Jules Mordovets lounging in a variety of Julian Louie ensembles was how the designer presented his Fall line. "There's intense workmanship in these clothes," he told Style.com, as the camera panned across a blouse to reveal a smattering of Swarovski pearls, "and those are the details that get lost in a show."A focus on laid-back silhouettes—carried over from Spring—unified the collection. It ranged from a pieced-together silk T-shirt paired with velvet peg-leg trousers to a roomy ruffle-trimmed dress embroidered with a floral motif inspired by a chair once owned by Marie Antoinette.
It was difficult to trace how Louie, who made a name for himself with sharp lines and a knack for color-blocking, came to create some of the more ornate pieces. By contrast, a silk-and-velvet tee with the aforementioned pearl embroidery, worn tucked into a simple black velvet miniskirt, felt like a more natural evolution. In any case, Louie has a talent for clothes that are at once special and wearable. Judging by the influential buyers in attendance tonight, we're not the only ones who think so.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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