Julien Macdonald
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
The window dressing of Julien Macdonald's business has moved way upmarket. Gainsbury & Whiting produce his show, George Cortina styles it, Charlotte Tilbury is in charge of maquillage, Steve Mackey's on the decks, et cetera, et cetera. But Macdonald himself brought things back down to earth with a cheerfully vulgar bump when he talked about the inspiration for his new collection. Jilly Cooper is the mistress of a literary medium known in England as "the bonk-buster," and it was her book Riders that turned Jools on for Fall 2010. The designer imagined a woman hot and bothered after a day on her horse, slipping into something sinful when she got home. So the collection breezily straddled two poles: sophisticated outerwear and suggestive, lingerie-influenced evening attire. The second outfit—a white, fur-trimmed parka with gray flannel jodhpurs—was followed by a rococo micro confection of flesh-toned chiffon and black lace.And thus was the day-and-night rhythm of the presentation determined. The knits that first made Macdonald's reputation were skillfully represented here—on the one hand, by a substantial cable-stitched top, and on the other, by the merest suggestion of cobweb knit that wreathed one model's slender frame. There was a Ghesquière-esque touch in some of the short draped or plisséd dresses, but Macdonald carved out a new signature for himself with hybrid garments like a black leather biker jacket attached to a navy wool skirt, or a dress that featured the bottom half of a jacket bonded to a negligée top. It may sound a little unconvincing on paper, but on the catwalk, it certainly had the courage of its bonk-busting convictions. You can see why this kind of thing has courted a whole new client for Macdonald's fusion of hard and soft. And, hey, that same formula has sold millions for Jilly Cooper.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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