February 17, 2010
Fur has been everywhere this week, and you couldn't expect Gilles Mendel, scion of the grand old furrier family, to just ignore it. Almost half the looks he presented today centered around something fuzzy and luxe. "I experimented a lot with fur techniques this season," Mendel said. "I wanted the pieces to feel textured and light." This was accomplished with patchworking (in the case of an asymmetrical vest of muskrat and raccoon) and bleaching (as in a silver fox hooded jacket with an interesting depth of color). A sequined wool dress with fox epaulets, meanwhile, was a posh nod to the current military trend.
Moonmilk, a series of images of caves by the photographer Ryan McGinley, informed the eveningwear palette of rust, Prussian blue, and moss green. Unfortunately, we've seen the strapless, draped silhouettes from this designer before. More interesting was a little red dégradé frock that, when it caught the light, appeared to drip with shimmering stalactites. Just the thing for an uptown girl off on a night of downtown spelunking.