Jean Paul Gaultier
PARIS, March 6, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
The invitation was the first clue we were in for a global melting pot at Jean Paul Gaultier: It pictured a mixed-up map of the world, with Mexico next to Togo, Morocco abutting India, Russia and Greece side by side, and so on. And the runway certainly delivered. From top to bottom his favorite model, Coco Rocha, wore an African-print turban, a peacoat with a silk chinoiserie lining to match her narrow skirt, neon green tights, and brick red cowboy boots. And Coco got off easy. Another model sported a babushka, a Masai necklace, a leather motorcycle jacket, a Mexican-blanket skirt, checked harem pants, yellow stockings, red tennis socks, and green platform sandals.It was absolutely as over-the-top as it sounds, and the message, if there really was one, was somewhat obscured by the fact that Gaultier is always working some sort of wacky theme. But the general gist—that the world is flat, and how we dress now is an ever-changing series of mash-ups—was pretty spot-on.
Subtract the gimmicky shoes and the costumey hats and, as usual, there were some fantastic clothes here. The expertly cut Gaultier trench showed up in many different guises: shrunken and cropped at the hip, cutaway at the thighs in front and trailing a long hem, or in black with a kimono-silk lining. At one end of the colorful spectrum was a louche smoking jacket, and, at the other, cozy-chic knits and some casually luxe furs. The protesters gathered in force outside would've booed loudly at the fur-trimmed backpack Gaultier borrowed from Sasha Pivovarova for his photo op. On the three-cheers side: He deserves props for the most diverse casting of Paris fashion week.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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