Jonathan Saunders
LONDON, February 23, 2010
By Sarah Mower
Slightly abstract pleated skirts with parkas or graphically printed overcoats: Jonathan Saunders' Fall collection was, as he put it, "about ease, and getting back to daywear." With the emphasis on drop waists and a sportier attitude, the proportions skewed longer, sometimes to below the knee. If not exactly minimal, there was a modernist punch about it all that seemed fresh, especially when Saunders used bold printing effects (which looked like roller painting) to create zones of matte and shine. At its best—as in a black coat bisected with a broad horizontal band of silver and a skirt with a sharply angled silver patch to match—it captured something of the long-lamented energy of Helmut Lang's urban chic, a simplicity and brevity of expression several designers have been harking back to this season.But what had become of the long dresses printed in vibrant colors Saunders used to do so well? This season, although there was a passage of fringed skirts cut from tags of fabric that might be construed as "cocktail," he ended on a non-evening note, with a cashmere intarsia sweater pulled over a skirt. Perhaps he didn't want to compromise his day-wardrobe statement, but it was a disappointment that he passed up the chance to further develop a look he's so good at.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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