Lacoste
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Lacoste gave invitees to its Fall show a book celebrating the brand's history, and there, in the photos of René Lacoste and friends at play in the thirties, was the inspiration for the opening passage. There was a striking new sophistication in the oatmeal- and stone-toned pieces: oversize outerwear wrapping some sharp jerseys and flannels for the boys and slouchy, sexy knits for the girls. Slouchiest of all was an alpaca hand-knit worn over rah-rah shorts.The chic neutral mood soon surrendered, though, to an orgy of primary color-blocking—and a different decade of inspiration. The Lacoste croc sparkling gold on the backdrop was a cue. So were the ponytails pulled to the side. If not quite disco, there was at least a strong eighties feel to a fuzzy sweater dress sliding off one shoulder, or a jumpsuit in red jersey, or the ribbed leggings worn with almost everything. They bunched over boots in a way that would have called to Jennifer Beals. And there were distinct echoes of other style statements from fashion's favorite decade: The sweatshirt dresses said Benetton; the green jacket with the black skirt, the yellow tights, and the pink gloves could have jumped straight out of a Bill King spread for Enrico Coveri; the striped jersey dress summoned up the spirit of Sonia Rykiel. What tied together all these images that Christophe Lemaire happily ransacked for the collection? A wholesale optimism and sporty joie de vivre—and there's no copyright on that.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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