Louise Goldin
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2010
By Sarah Mower
"It's space military," said Louise Goldin, of a collection whose launching pad was the photos of Pierre Cardin's graphic sixties work and body armor pinned to her studio wall. That puts Goldin in the futurist/sci-fi substream of current trend, though in her case, it's a development of the silhouette she's been working a while. For Fall, it took her into sculptural stiff-peplumed army green or navy tunics and A-line skirts with padded 3-D geometric surfaces, as well as matte-shine splicings of leather, stingray, and fox.Technically, Goldin's a genius in knitwear—her quilting effects and origamilike structures are the result of months spent working in Italian factories, coaxing the near-impossible out of expert machinists for her showpieces. It's a pulled-together, rigorous look, and the flashes of styling genius (like the sparkly cuffed red or pink short shorts peeking from beneath hemlines) set it apart from anything too literally Trekkie. At this stage of her career, Goldin has nothing more to prove on the accomplishment or vision fronts. More mundanely, though, her struggle is to convince the audience that her total look can be broken down into items that will merge into an everyday wardrobe. Backstage, she pulled out regular sweaters with bullet holders and pockets on the upper arms, cargo leggings, and lace-fine geometrically patterned knitted hosiery—all liable to help her salability. But she still needs to bend her uncompromising talent to making those items more evident.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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