February 20, 2010 London
Technically, Goldin's a genius in knitwear—her quilting effects and origamilike structures are the result of months spent working in Italian factories, coaxing the near-impossible out of expert machinists for her showpieces. It's a pulled-together, rigorous look, and the flashes of styling genius (like the sparkly cuffed red or pink short shorts peeking from beneath hemlines) set it apart from anything too literally Trekkie. At this stage of her career, Goldin has nothing more to prove on the accomplishment or vision fronts. More mundanely, though, her struggle is to convince the audience that her total look can be broken down into items that will merge into an everyday wardrobe. Backstage, she pulled out regular sweaters with bullet holders and pockets on the upper arms, cargo leggings, and lace-fine geometrically patterned knitted hosiery—all liable to help her salability. But she still needs to bend her uncompromising talent to making those items more evident.