February 13, 2010 New York
A short, navy tweed jacket with the lacquered finish Melgoza favored this season had an oversize, sculptural collar; the sheen on the nubby fabric gave this day look a luxurious, dressed-up feel. There were many such subtle touches, like the single sequined shoulder on a gray shift. Other fabrics, unfortunately, didn't have quite the same restraint: The leathers were too shiny, and one lacquered-silk skirt looked a bit like a trash bag. Of the three evening dresses that closed the show, the floor-length one in ivory silk with a crossed bodice was strongest. Its gold-encrusted racerback gave it a sexy athleticism that characterizes the best of Melgoza's designs.