Raul Melgoza's fourth full collection at the helm of Luca Luca was his most confident and successful to date. Playing with contrasts, both with textures and tailoring—curved seams, for example, on linear shapes—he continued to pursue his architectural agenda.

A short, navy tweed jacket with the lacquered finish Melgoza favored this season had an oversize, sculptural collar; the sheen on the nubby fabric gave this day look a luxurious, dressed-up feel. There were many such subtle touches, like the single sequined shoulder on a gray shift. Other fabrics, unfortunately, didn't have quite the same restraint: The leathers were too shiny, and one lacquered-silk skirt looked a bit like a trash bag. Of the three evening dresses that closed the show, the floor-length one in ivory silk with a crossed bodice was strongest. Its gold-encrusted racerback gave it a sexy athleticism that characterizes the best of Melgoza's designs.