February 26, 2010 Milan
Greatcoats, stand-up collars, rows of buttons on shoulders, and long skirts in navy, gray, khaki, and stone formed the core of the show. These uniformly passed muster with all the evident quality women expect from this house—save, perhaps, for the shearlings. In a season of hot competition on the sheepskin front, these seemed too featureless and bulky to be contenders. Where the presentation really stretched credibility was when the styling delved into wide trousers tucked into leather knee boots, gold cocktail dresses, and heavily embroidered eveningwear with a quasi-czarist theme. That much historicism only served to distract from the strengths of a company whose classic product doesn't need to dress up in fancy disguises to prove its market relevance.