The pressure was on for newcomer Marco de Vincenzo
, who put on his second-ever Milan show in front of an impressive array of international editors this morning. It was perhaps a sign of inexperience that the collection went off in several unrelated directions, from jackets and long split skirts made from somewhat fusty landscape fabrics to drapey panne velvet embroidered with stars for evening. That kept it from being a complete success, but there were a couple of subthemes that showed potential. First were the sporty gray cashmere jackets—the best one was on the snugger side and came belted over narrow, tapering pants. Even more promising were the designer's slim, collarless white coats with curving splices on the front and back that resembled the f-holes of a violin. If de Vincenzo is looking for a focus for next season, he would be smart to zero in on his accomplished, feminine tailoring.