Mark Fast
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 20, 2010
By Sarah Mower
For a softly spoken Canadian knitter from the forest fringes of Winnipeg, Mark Fast has certainly made a lot of headway. Since last season's show, he's become a champion of size-inclusive modeling—a stroke that made him headlines the world over—and launched a second line of stretchy underwear and body dresses named Faster. So far, so impressive, but such is the voracious speed of information absorption that Fast was in the position of having to pull off something extra for Fall.Was it there? In part. He opened with a flowing, nut-brown silken poncho dress and a cranberry suede gored skirt and jacket that announced that he's aware more needs to be added to his short, tight, stretchy repertoire. Waterfall scarf trails and flippy skirts in viscose knits recurred here and there, but mostly he kept to his tried and tested device of matte, elastic open-stitch cobwebby knits, engineered to cling to everything you've got.
There's no doubt Fast should be applauded for continuing to use plus-size models. Carrying that through for a second time not only showed integrity but made it look almost normal practice—or at least not as novel as it did at first. Still, now that he's set himself the admirable goal of making everyone feel great about her shape, Fast has a way to go to see it through. There were glitches in the underpinnings and kinks and creases in the fabrication that (literally) needed to be smoothed out in this collection for it to seem 100 percent gorgeously convincing for all.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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