Missoni
MILAN, February 28, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Missoni's latest ad campaign focuses on the family. And designer Angela took a tribe of third-generation Missonis down the catwalk with her today. It was as if she was emphasizing the emotional connection you can make with fashion (Dolce & Gabbana did the same thing at their show). That's also another way of emphasizing the value of the "Made in Italy" marque. Clever.The show itself was rooted in a more universal tribal spirit. It found common ground among the Celts, the Masai, punks, the kids at Burning Man…clearly a new turn of events for Missoni, but it made sense on the catwalk. A wrap skirt in patchworked Missoni knit could almost be a tartan kilt, especially given the big pins that literally held the collection together. And a big, slouchy blanket coat, also clasped with a pin, could be a Masai warrior's wrap. In fact, the whole idea of "could be" was Angela's impetus. Almost everything we were looking at had the potential to be something else. So all the knit shifts, tent dresses, and crop tops that were shown zipped open up the back were actually the wrong way around. And skirts could be pulled up or down, tops extended or shrunk.
Reversals and reconfigurations are the kind of notions that people more routinely get to grips with on their own (in a changing room, perhaps), which means this collection's user-friendliness was perhaps not as evident on the catwalk as it could have been. There was gorgeous outerwear—a fur-trimmed knit parka, for instance, layered over a skirt and pants (very haute Braveheart)—but much of it was offered with nothing more than clunky black-trimmed bras or bandeaus. Still, that's for show, and ultimately it scarcely distracted from the allure of a duffel-cape hybrid or an open-weave poncho that swirled like Macbeth's cloak.
To return to that family connection: Angela's daughter Margherita Maccapani Missoni carved a niche for herself in the business today with her first accessories collection: bracelets and neck pieces in chromed metal that held the knit tight. They had a techno-tribal edge that seemed entirely appropriate.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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