Black cowboy hat, dark shades, big gold hoop earrings, and a black strapless bustier dress with a voluptuous spill of ruffles for a skirt. From the first outfit you knew that Moschino's Rosella Jardini wasn't interested in pursuing the new subtlety that's been sweeping through fashion. Those earrings turned up as embroideries on a strapless dress and as the trim on a little Chanel-esque skirtsuit, not to mention as a print on a silk blouse. And that was just the beginning. There was also long leather fringe, huge grommets, gold sequins, leopard spots, and Elizabethan ruffs turned into miniskirts. As for the chapeaux and sunglasses, every model without exception wore them.

Just what a simple black dress with slightly puffed shoulders was doing in Jardini's exuberant lineup wasn't clear, but it did offer a moment's pause before she sent out a caution-orange blazer cinched with a hot pink corset. To be fair, there were some charming looks here, including a leopard-print sleeveless shift layered over a black turtleneck and an easy tent dress with delicate lace insets, as well as a trench in putty and chocolate brown—a seemingly conservative piece, until you saw the cowboy fringe in the back. Those were all things you could imagine hanging in a store; it's just that on the runway they were overshadowed by much of the rest.