Maurizio Pecoraro had the dusty pales that have become a theme on the Fall runways. He trotted out a flurry of Mongolian lamb furs. He even did a mannish suit—-a really sharp-looking one, in double-breasted gray flannel with flaring, cuffed trousers. In his own subtle way, this designer usually figures out how to tap into the current mood. Should the international audience have checked back in with him this season (over-scheduled non-Italian editors and buyers tend to skip this show), they would've been quietly pleased by the tailoring Pecoraro put on the catwalk. Examples ranged from the boxy charcoal jacket and straight skirt edged in brown leather that opened the show to a herringbone coat-dress with a doubled lapel.

The issue is that Pecoraro's not really a big statement guy. In addition to his suitings, which felt fresh, he muddled the message by showing a good many of the sequin shift dresses that have become a predictable element of his shows, along with suede flares and fur-embellished knitwear. Without a more precise point of view, he remains one of those overlooked Milan talents whose collection gets squeezed out by the city's manically busy schedule. It won't be easy catching everyone's attention again, but a more focused presentation would be a smart place to start.